Our Double Button, High, Spread CollarIf Your Face Is A Portrait, Then Your Collar Should Be A Frame
In the art world, framers take on an important role in drawing the viewer into the piece within the confines of four corners. The frame’s job is not only to accentuate the artwork, but to bridge the gap between our physical space and the pictorial plane of view.
In the same sense as a framed work of art, the collar of a shirt bridges the gap between our various body coverings and our most prominent physical feature: our face.
The collar frames whatever it rests against. For example: if you have a particularly long neck, a short collar stand and tiny collar points will call more attention to your neck than anything else.
A high collar will stand proud on the neckline, while retaining the ability to do so with or without a jacket. However, to do that, requires specific architecture to be built into the collar band and the collar itself. It’s for this reason that we cut organic curves into our collar and collar band: It allows the collar points to rest naturally in the hollows of the shoulders (trapezius muscles).
Finally, its crucial that the under collar is cut correctly so that the spread collar breaks in with a nice roll. In your own experience, you may have noticed that some shirts don’t have an under collar that extends the full length of the collar points:
It seems harmless, but the lack of a third layer of fabric where the collar joins the band makes the collar wear unevenly due to one part of the collar being more structurally rigid.
In time, any collar roll that was present will break down, and the owner will be forced to wear a limp collar or to make use of collar stays. Essentially, the collar will have greater difficulty in doing its job of framing.
Details like these that are often overlooked because of their subtlety, but in the end they have a huge impact on our experience of a shirt.
All The Best,